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ISTANBUL, Turkey--Istanbul stands where Europe, Asia and the Middle East converge in a wonderful blend of cultures, religions, languages and ethnicities. It is a city rich in history that has shaped lands far beyond its geographical confines.
More than exotic, Istanbul is alive with a vibrancy that draws you in. Imagine the Falls on a peak summer day with hordes of people from across the earth taking in the majesty. Multiply that experience by 10 and you'll get an idea of the size and diversity of the crowds found on a routine day on any commercial street in Istanbul.
After wrapping up a work assignment in Germany, I had a few days off and got a flight to Istanbul to visit my daughter, Amy, who's studying and working here. My daughter is getting her doctorate in Islamic studies from McGill University in Montreal, conducing research in the libraries in Istanbul and also teaches English part time.
I stayed in the area of Istanbul called Beyoglu. It's on a hill overlooking the Golden Horn, a magnificent harbor that flows into the Bosphorus. My daughter rents a room in this neighborhood from a lovely Turkish woman, who happens to be a fabulous cook.
I stayed at the Grand Hotel de Londres. It was built in 1850 as the mansion of a wealthy Greek merchant family and was converted into a hotel in 1892.
Ernest Hemingway stayed at the hotel after World War I, when he was a reporter covering the Turkish-Greek war. I sat in the bar sipping Turkish wine, thinking Papa Hemingway surely had more than a few pops in this very place.
A neighboring hotel, the Pera Palace, is a spot rich in history and tradition. Agatha Christie, a frequent guest, wrote Murder On the Orient Express while staying there. Mata Hari and Greta Garbo also stayed there.
It's impossible to take in even the major sights of Istanbul in just three days, but what I did see was spectacular.
We went to Sultanahmet, where two of the world's great architectural treasures face each other. The Hagia Sophia is an outstanding example of early Byzantine architecture. The "Church of Holy Wisdom" was built over two earlier churches and inaugurated by Emperor Justinian in 537. It was Christianity's most magnificent church, long before St. Peter's in Rome.
In the 15th century, the Ottomans converted it into a mosque adding minarets, tombs and fountains. Seeing the different religious traditions in the same edifice is a remarkable experience.
Opposite Hagia Sophia is the Blue Mosque. It gets its name from the blue tile work decorating the interior. Unlike Sophia, this remains an active mosque, and you must remove your shoes to enter.
It is serene--almost magical--and the splendor of the dome is mesmerizing. Your neck gets tired peering at the flowing arabesques painted onto the interior of the dome.
We went to the Hippodrome, all that's left of what once was a gigantic stadium where chariots raced. Constantine's column stands here, constructed in 330 A.D.
Nearby is an Egyptian obelisk built in 1500 B.C. Constantine stole it and brought it to the city he named after himself.
Istanbul has a vast underground water system that shows clever Byzantine engineering, and is the coolest place in town. The Basilica Cistern was built in the 6th century and the cavernous vault helped supply the city with water.
I did check out the Turkish baths, and for $15, you get the massage of your life.
You end up in a huge marble steam room. Most of the other patrons were Turkish, and I had no idea what to do. Finally, a guy motioned to me to stretch out on this enormous marble slab in the center of the room.
The massage twisted my flesh and actually hurt, but when it was all over, I felt great. One night we stopped at a popular night spot, Levi's Jewish Wine Bar. Since devout Muslims don't d
rink, Jews and Christians had to provide that vital public service. Levi's, which dates back to the 16th century, is decorated with portraits of old Rabbis.
Levi's has a festive feel, and you sit alongside other guest on long tables. Very nice red and white wines are served, and you can select from an array of appetizers: olives, eggplant dip, dolma (stuffed grape leaves) and marinated seafood.
We went to Yol's Cafe Bar run by Shi'ite Muslims. The bar was dark and sensuous, and a guy and gal with a stringed instrument and drum made a really great sound. I couldn't understand a word of the lyrics, but Amy translated and said most of it had religious themes. It was a fine musical experience and, yes, they served alcohol, in spite of what the Koran says.
Amy and I took a boat ride through the Bosphorus. Getting to the dock was an adventure in itself. The entire waterfront area is a massive outdoor market. People are selling anything and everything. The trip was pleasant as we traveled north of the center city and viewed some fabulous palaces and mosques the Sultans built on the water, and homes in the high-rent district in Istanbul.
I left Istanbul longing for more. My three nights in the hotel, breakfast included, along with modest bar charges came to a staggering 86 bucks. Okay, I got a slight discount--the regular tourist would pay $93.